Reflections on the desert.
Could this be Texas’ version of the Devil’s Triangle? Anchored, one on each corner, are Marfa, Alpine, and Terlingua, and at some point in-between them, you get lost.
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Terlingua resulted in the biggest disappointment during my first Big Bend Country trip ~ I didn’t give myself enough time to visit.
This “Ghostown” in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert, near Big Bend National Park and the US/Mexico border, has some kind of hold on me. It is the last place I would ever want to live, yet I have been there twice in the last year, and am already thinking of my next trip.
Davis Mountain State Park served as home base during or first trip to the region (we stayed in Alpine on or most recent trip). We planned our visit to Terlingua to be part of a big round-trip through Big Bend, giving us about two hours to visit. But soon after we arrived, I quickly realized we should have spent the day exploring.
TRAVEL PHOTOS, TRIVIA & TIPS:
Terlingua is located about 83 miles south of Alpine, and the drive included some the most breathtaking scenery I saw during our trip.
The main attraction is the ghost town (or “Ghostown”), which rose up in the desert in the 1880’s. It was a mining town, which mined cinnabar used to make mercury. Once home to 2000 people, it was abandoned in the 1940’s after the mine filed bankruptcy. The current population of the town is around 58 (as of 2010).
The ghost town includes a school, church, and many other buildings. Some are preserved, even being converted to usable buildings, while others are in ruins.
With several educators in my family, including myself, I find the abandoned schools in Terlingua fascinating.
One of the things I like to collect when traveling are books from local authors. During my last visit I picked up Trent Jones and Carlton Stowers book, Terlingua Teacher, at the Terlingua Trading Company.
An enjoyable read that really gives you a sense of life here in the 70’s. It’s tells the story of how Trent Jones came to Terlingua to teach a group of students in what was to be the last one room schoolhouse in Texas, the colorful people who live in the unforgiving part of Texas, and what being a teacher truly means. If you can’t get to the Trading Company to pick you up a copy, you can order it here. (affiliate link)
Around Town
Some of the “newer” old buildings seem to be occupied by residents and local artists.
This area is so unbelievably barren and beautiful. Quirky. Artsy. Unpretentious. Perfect.
This panorama shows the town of Terlingua to the right, with Big Bend National Park’s mountains in the distance. I’m standing on top of a hill in the ghost town.
Visiting the ghost town is free. Just park in designated parking, and walk around.
The Heart of the Town
The heart of the town appears to be the Terlingua Trading Company…at least for tourists.
In all honesty, it is a place you have to hang out while there. If you can avoid all the souvenirs (I couldn’t), grab yourself a drink and sit on the porch. Porch sitting seems to be the favorite pastime of most visitors. They even leave guitars on the porch, and I was lucky to have someone pick one up and play during my last visit.
It appears one of us had more fun than the other.
Even Miss Roxie enjoyed the porch, and was completely unaware she was not welcomed.
Not only do visitors ignore this warning on the porch, the woman in the shop let me bring Roxie inside to help us get a break from the heat (and let me do more shopping).
A couple of stools outside the Starlight Theater. I did not get an opportunity to eat there as the “no dogs allowed” rule does apply here.
We did find a dog friendly place to eat at Rustic Iron BBQ! It’s on the main (i.e. only) road into town, and the food was great!
Terlingua Cemetery
What would a ghost town be without a cemetery? I don’t know about you, but I find cemeteries to be very beautiful and peaceful places to go, and actually plan my trips to go see them.
You can learn so much about life from the headstones of the dead.
Could this be Texas’ Devil’s triangle after all?
Happy Trails,
Mrs. Padilly
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It certainly is. We’ve always wanted to go back there. Maybe some time.
Reminds me of our honeymoon: we stayed in Fort Davis and did a lot of driving around Big Bend country.
It’s a beautiful region of Texas. 🙂